RP, sorry for the delay.  There seems to be a bit of delay in the Desert Internet...:)

Seems you understand the basic structure of the EQ function in the RME.   Peak filters are the sole option in Bands 2-4 because the others wouldn't be useful to us. .   Hi Cut/Lo Cut do exactly as their name implies.   The Shelf filters are a "sloping" type of filter that work gradually across a larger range of frequencies.  Example:  Willems most recent FR Graph shows how emplying a gentle "shelf" filter in Band 1 was quite effective at linearizing his overall room response. 

Reading Material?  Just hang around here..you'll get the idea quickly.

Edit:  In the meantime...Perhaps you'd find this Link to provide you a better understanding in a more expedient manner than just "Hanging Around"...

https://www.homestudiocorner.com/filter-vs-shelf/

I hope this answers some questions you may have had.   Thanks for stopping by!   It's been awhile since I last saw you on the Forum.  Welcome Back!!

Curt

Thanks for all the help and comments on the result. Yes much of it is within about +/- 3 dB (smoothed) which is really rather nice, and the sound is indeed tighter. I will remove the filter at 300 Hz because the result is quite simply too location specific, and I will see if I can get rid of the really low bass peak. So I do think a few further tweaks are possible.
With regard to the bigger picture I have one remaining question. I was wondering if after all I should not give the lower fequencies some boost with the tone control to get closer to the Harman target curve. The sound is indeed a bit lean and bass light right now.

In the meantime I have tweaked it a bit more for a slightly flatter response, and a bit more bass. The peak at 25 Hz remains pretty nasty and I failed to remove all of it  it, even with a 32 Hz high pass filter and a reduction in subwoofer output. Its shape also responds quite strongly to small differences in the listening/microphone position. The good news is, of course, that there is not that much real music at that frequency. My guess is that if I really want to reduce it meaningfully and over a wide area, I will have to get a second subwoofer.
Now that I have arrived at a good curve I will turn on the dynamic loudness as well.

rpgroman, you need to upload your image first on a tool like this:
https://reho.st/

Then copy/paste the link they provide (they even provide the link with the correct img markup for this forum; you just have to copy/paste it on your post and it's ok).

Thanks to Noob.  Red line is right speaker, black is left.  1/3 octave smoothing.

Welcome to this forum with its friendly people eager to help. My contribution would be to suggest that stereo subwoofers may not be such a good idea (two subs is, but in mono). At these low frequences there is no directional information and in stereo you miss the opportunity to let them compensate their separate room modes as they do in mono.

You're, indeed, correct....near, but not right in the corner.  See measurements in my other post.

Subs are located just behind each speaker and, as with the rest, there is nowhere else I would be allowed to place them...

You're too kind, Curt.

This is my first attempt at EQ:

It appears to be nicer-looking, but I'm a complete novice at this, so it's not clear to me whether I've done more harm than good.  EQ settings are as follows:

Right channel/speaker:

Filter 1:  G -2.0    F 32    Q 9.3 using peak filter
Filter 2:  G +6.0   F 200  Q 0.6
Filter 3:  G +9.0   F 69    Q 2.2
Filter 4:  Unused
Filter 5:  Unused

Left channel/speaker:

Filter 1:  G +7.5   F 50    Q  0.5 using shelf filter
Filter 2   G  -9.0   F 144   Q   8.5
Filter 3   G +9.0   F 210   Q   7.2
Filter 4   G +2.5   F 330   Q   0.7
Filter 5   Unused

RP,

Real Quick, lets reduce the Level of the Right Sub by 3-4 db. 

PS:  Where are you located on the Globe?

For this coming week anyway, we're in nearby time zones.    

Some users are not amused when my communications arrive to them at...3am.

Here is the EQ'd measurments at 1/6 octave smoothing:

I don't know the answer to this so I hope someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in but am I seeing a phase issue in this graph?

Hey RP!   Back in position atop my Remote Perch in the W.Texas Desert

Let's keep it simple, and Concentrate our efforts on "The Big Picture" for now.  We'll dig into Picky Oonie stuff down the Road.

At first blush, it seems the Acoustic Output of the Right Sub (at the measurement position) is several db HIGHER than the Left Sub.   Let's lower the right Sub 3-4db.

Then, when Time Permits, make a Sweep of the System with BOTH CHANNELS.   The way we normally listen, so that we have a Full System Composite measurement.   

Note:   For our test Purposes, it's imperative that the Measurement Mic be positioned EXACTLY at the Main Listening Position.   Not on the Floor, etc.  I mean, Smack Dab where your head is while sitting in the Hot Seat. We need to be fussy in this respect, else we'll be wading through all sorts of....you know what. (Hint:  Emanates from Bulls)

A few Questions: 1)  What is your Sub XO Freq?    2) What's the deal with that HF Droop at about 6khz??    That looks odd...like there's a Quilt draped over the Speakers.   (This made me wonder if the Mic wasn't actually ON the floor.  Waaay off the Tweeter Axis)

At any rate, your data thus far suggests that your System could be quite manageable perhaps with a few well-placed adjustments. 

Curt

Sounds Fine RP!   

Keep in mind that this entire thing is supposed to be Fun, so don't feel you have to perform Heroics for our benefit.   This is a SAFE PLACE.  There are NO Losers...only Winners in rhe end.  (I hate to get into that Crap Philosophy, but this is different)   None of us are here to Criticize or Condemn.  If We can only get you a LITTLE  bit closer to increased enjoyment of your New RME. and ultimately, Your Music Collection...then we have Conquered the Universe! 

Curt.

Hmm...RP the Plot is a bit Blurry.  I see the Picture of course, but the Freq numbers aren't legible.   (Scratching Head)

Edit:  I see a Peak down Low, and a bit of a Null a somewhat higher.   I'd be guessing a bit, but a Room Mode, and a Seating Positiin induced Null seem plausible.

Don't worry RP.   We can figure this out. 

That HF Droop drives me Batty.  I'm sure Violins sound "Honey-Like" but in Real Life they don't.

Curt

PS:  Noobs Wife is a Cellist in Paris.   Let's not EVEN get him on our case regarding what is "Real" 

I think something's temporarily amiss with that rehost site.  Even with the images that I'd previously posted just fine....when I try to upload them again, it only gives me the option of the miniature.  I've rebooted the computer, etc., etc. but same results.

Well, to be honest, I thought it sounded pretty darned good with the EQ that I'd put in.  But, hey, I'm 66 yrs. old and the ears aren't what they used to be, though my hearing tests are still good. I probably can't hear anything much above 12 khz, anyway, so the super high freqs are not going to be a particular issue. Without EQ, the bass is definitely boomy.  But, I'm not super picky about things although, I'm kind of a clarity/detail nut and I'd like to get the EQ dialed in to where the measured response with EQ is as good as I can get it.  Then at that point, I figured I'll do extended listening and tweak to taste. 

I listen to a lot of jazz/female vocalists, a lot of classical, a fair amount of flamenco and classical guitar some fold, and, of course, those great oldies from the 60's and 70's.

I see a lot has happened on the West Coast while Europe was asleep. Time to turn the tables.
1 You have a big mismatch between speaker height and listening/measurement height. As Alan Shaw, Harbeth's owner and designer, has explained on their forum, integration between drivers can only be perfect at one vertical axis. The designer has to choose this reference axis and that is the heigth the user should listen. For the vast majority of speaķer designs this reference axis is at tweeter height. So listen and measure with your ear at tweeter height, and be as precise as you can. My hunch is that this explains your strange higher frequency response.
2 Use your subs in mono. There is no directional information at these frequencies so you have nothing to loose and what you gain is mutual compensation of room mode peaks and dips and over a wider area. This is the advantage of multiple subs. Usually you set one at 0 degree phase and one at 180 degrees.
3 Where are the subs? Research by Harman suggests that one in the middle of each side wall or one at the middle of the front and one in the middle of the back wall may well produce the best results. Do experiment.
4 I think you may well be crossing over the subs quite a bit too high. My hunch would be that somewhere between 25 and 30 Hz is the right ballpark.
5 Once you have addressed all this it becomes time to think about equalization. The beauty of the rme dac is that it has these filters, but effectively you only have three where it matters, below 200 Hz. So you have to be very selective about which peaks to tame. Therefore I am combining these filters with an Antimode 8033 outboard dsp room eq unit for the subwoofer (it only works for subs). This has far more filters and does its measuring automatically. The three additional rme filters effectively only serve to tame the main speakers even though I use a combined measurement. The Antimode 8033 is quite affordable, is easy to operate and is very effective.

Hi RP.

I hope I didn't offend by my comment.
That wasn't my intention at all.
I saw your L & R seeming to play frequencies in opposition to each other so jumped to an early conclusion.
A conclusion that is based on zero knowledge!

Listen to Curt. Ignore me. That's probably the best bet.

I am not talking about directional information, I am talking about phase information, which is lost with any mono signal. The mentioned article is wrong in this regard.

Phase is a relative parameter. A mono signal has no phase information because it is only one channel. A phase difference is only possible between at least two different channels.

The question is how audible this is and how potential benefits compare to the benefits of averaging peaks and dips from room modes.

As is visible in the response graph of my mono system, bass does not disappear, but extends down to at least some 15 Hz. My only real problem with low frequencies is the uneven response. For some references, see here:

https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/00da/5 … a1a72e.pdf
https://www.harman.com/sites/default/fi … subs_0.pdf
https://hometheaterhifi.com/technical/t … in-voecks/

That was going to be my next question...

Home Theatre is mono for bass so why is the same not true for hifi.
So the reason is because LFE is a channel in itself which HAS to be mono (hence the single RCA cable) whereas stereo bass with subs relies on harmony with the speakers you are using....

That's my very very limited understanding of it...